From NYC to Mendoza, by way of Buenos Aires

From NYC to Mendoza, by way of Buenos Aires.

Friday, July 1, 2011

Macchu Pichu, Colca Canyon, Pink Eye and a Cold


So I've been a bit delinquent in writing due to many factors: days and day of trekking, shit internet connection in the hostels, a mild head cold mixed with a lingering case of pink eye, and the basic lack of desire to type. A three night bout of insomnia finally ended last night after having a few drinks in Arequipa, the second largest city in Peru, known for its white buildings and proximity to the Colca Canyon.

So back to Cusco, the Salkantay Trek, and Macchu Pichu. The five day, 100 km trek was definitely the hardest camping/trekking I've done, which really doesn't say much considering my lack of real hiking experience, but I still felt really good about it.

We averaged about 20k a day in 4-7 hours, lots of ups and downs (highest point was almost 5,000 meters above sea level). It went from below freezing the first night to jungle conditions with coffee and banana plantations on all sides on the fourth day. Second day, view of the valley where I felt like Jurassic Park was filmed:

By the time we got to Aguas Calientes, the jumping off point for MP, on the fourth afternoon, we were all looking pretty rustic. Fortunately the third afternoon treated us to a few hours of relaxing in newly created hot springs, so we were smelling okay. (First shower after 4 days was in Aguas Calientes).

First taste of Inca Cola on the 4th Day of trekking:


The fifth day was the climax of the trek, waking at 3:30 am to get to the gates of the entrance to MP city by 4:30, as they open the gates at 4:50, and the first 400 people up get passes to climb Wayna Picchu. After a very tough 45 minutes of climbing gigantic stairs (in the dark- Judith had a head torch but I left her halfway in, so had to tag along with strangers with lights) to the gates, passing people who were panting, sitting, or vomiting on the sides of the stairs, I was maybe number 20 in line. Got my 10am stamp for Wayna Picchu, and then it was time to wait again, until the real gates to MP city opened at 6am. We got in, and it was a cloudy overcast over all the city:


Once we were in, our guide Walter gave us a two hour tour, explaining the ruins and history of the ancient city. By 8am we were left to our own devices to explore, get coffee, and wait until we could climb WP at 10.

Judith and I headed in 15 minutes to 10, and started the ascent. Having not read anything about WP or knowing what to expect, I was more than surprised when I got near the top and the teeny tiny steps climbing what it felt like 90 degrees. I was literally holding on to the side of the mountain, not looking down, and wondering if this was really what we were supposed to be doing. Seeing other equally scared and surprised people behind me, I kept on going. Reaching the top, after just under an hour of steady stair climbing, I was dizzy with fear and adrenaline. Never having been afriad of heights in my life, I was actually scared to climb the last little ladder that reached the top rocks. I waited 15 minutes for Judith to reach me, and after her assurance that it was okay, I went up the ladder.

Tiny stairs that I went down on my butt:


And what a view. MP was a blip on the ground below, we were in the clouds, we were on top of the world. We stayed for almost 2 hours, taking pictures, snacking on fruit, and really just too damn scared to go back down those teeny tiny stairs. The Incas were a small and crazy people. View of MP from WP:


Now we're in Arequipa, having just spent 2 days in Colca Canyon on an incredibly boring touristy tour that Judith had booked back in Austria and that I went along with. We saw some condors (a lot of condors, and very up close actually) and went to some more hot springs, but other than that, not much to write about. She bought me a cocktail (a Colca Sour - made with a sour kiwi-like fruit from a cactus) because she felt bad about dragging me along on this tour. We were the youngest on the tour, save for a brainiac 8 year old on vacation with his parents.

Tonight we're on another overnight bus to Ica and Huacachina, 10 hours north, an oasis in the middle of a desert, wineries, pisco distilleries, and sandboarding (like snowboarding but with sand).

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