From Santiago to the Atacama Desert.

It's only been a week and the towns are already starting to blend together so I figured I should get down on (virtual) paper what I've been up to. I've veered off the paper journal route and am now using this lovely outpost to capture my travel experieneces. Let's hope Blogger's servers don't skip town in the near future!

What's today? Ah, Sunday. So Thursday we took a 2 hour bus trip to Viña del Mar, a beachside resort that was definitely in its low season. We took the recommended walking tour, saw a clock made of flowers, a few German castles, a group of Chilean Marines running drills in short shorts, and the Pacific (my first time seeing the ocean since Patagonia!). Failed to find an appealing local restaurant and settled for over priced but delicious pizza in an Italian restaurant you'd find in NYC or Italy. There was an abundance of Italian and Mexican restaurants in Viña del Mar for some reason.

That night we caught the midnight bus from Santiago to La Serena, a six-ish hour drive north, more of a stopping point to break up the long bus rides. We arrived at 6am, and Yvonne had caught an ear infection (too much pisco, not enough water, too much bussing?) so she slept the day away. We had a nice private room at a really sweet German hostel, full of wooden patio furniture to hang out on. Ian and I scoped out the little town, known for its numerous churches and white-washed colonial style buildings. Found an awesome lunch spot full of local business men and women, chowing down on soups and stews. Ian ordered the shellfish chowder and I got the hot seafood soup. He definitely won and I had such food envy that when he suggested returning to the same restaurant for dinner, I happily obliged. Unfortunately it seemed the chowder had been sitting around since lunch time and was a bit congealed and had an off flavor. Yvonne and I were disappointed. She ordered an empanada and I pouted.

The next day (Saturday?) Ian and I were off to the small town of Vicuña, in the Elqui Valley, famous for a Nobel Prize winning poet (not Pablo Neruda) and of course pisco distilleries. Yvonne still wasn't feeling up to par so she stayed in bed. Getting off the bus, we were greeted by the Black Eyed Peas blasting from somewhere close. Shaking our heads, we tracked it down to the town's plaza, where there was a mini carnival being hosted by the local gas company, GasCo. It was sad. Cotton candy, hoop games, a bouncy house, even a little man dressed as a blue drop of gas. The kids were eating it up. It all felt too Erin Brockovich to me. The big bad gas company trying to win over the locals.

We found our way over to the first Pisco distillery, Capel, which I had noticed branded itself all over the countryside with water tanks and signs in people's yards. The tour was in Spanish, we were joined by 4 very annoying college kids (from American U. of course), and the tour guide just didn't give a shit about the whole thing. But it was cool to see how similar the process was to wine making, just with the distilling bit added on.

And the tasting at the end were all super sweet pisco mixes! I had to ask to try pisco by itself. After trying one of their premium aged piscos, we realized why it's always mixed with something - pisco is not good alone.

We refused to give up and hailed a cab to a tiny distillery the tourism office told us about, ABA. Literally a mom and pop joint about 10 minutes outside of Vicuña, with one lady hand applying the labels when we walked in, who gave us 3 samples, and barely tried to sell anything to us. So we didn't buy any, much to our surprise. By this time it was 1:30 and we had a 3pm bus back to La Serena. We found an amazing local joint recommended to us by the cab driver. It was again filled with locals, always a good sign. We each ordered 1/4 of rotisserie chicken and side salad with the freshest avocado, tomato, lettuce. Might have been the best meal thus far in Chile, and the cheapest, at a whopping $5.

Then it was back to La Serena to pick up Yvonne and our bags, and we were on the 6pm bus to San Pedro de Atacama, where we arrived at 11am this morning. Yep, 17 hours on the bus. I thankfully scored one of the prime seats on the top level, in the very front, with great views of the desert. Ian and Yvonne sat in the back towards the bathroom. I was able to sleep for the first 2 hours, then had "dinner," made a dent in my book (stifle your groans - I'm reading Pride and Prejudice, as it is one of Yvonne's favorites and it was free on Amazon.com), listened to a This American Life podcast, and was back to sleep by 1am. Woke up at 8 feeling rather good.

Then I got off the bus.

San Pedro is at an elevation of about 7,900 ft (2.400 meters). Let me back up a bit by explaining that since Santiago, Yvonne (a nurse) had been blaming many things on altitude, from her fast heartbeat, to my peeing a lot (I just drink a lot of water!), to the fact that one margarita made me tipsy. And that was at 520 meters/ 1,700 feet.

Upon arriving today, Yvonne again warned us of the effects of altitude. Ian and I laughed her off saying we'd heard enough already. We jokingly started blaming everything on altitude. Ow, I bumped my head! Must be the altitude. etc.

Shame on me. First I felt the headache at the hostel and laid down for a minute. Then we walked down to the center to grab lunch, where I was starting to feel body aches. Yvonne warned me not to eat too much because the altitude slows down your metabolism and your body can't digest food as quickly. Thought I'd be safe with some corn soup, a few biscuits, and a mint lemonade. We sat for a while, and all was okay so we went to a tour company to check out the Bolivian salt flat trip, with again more sitting. Then we left and I stood up, and walked in the blaring desert sun. Immediately felt nauseous, with the strong urge to vomit. We were close to the restaurant we had eaten at so I made a beeline to their bathroom but it was a false alarm. We all agreed a siesta was in order and we headed back the 10 minute walk to the hostel. Yvonne was talking away and I was mute. I found it hard to focus, I couldn't talk except to tell them I was going to the mini mart to grab some water. Ian joined me. Bought a huge jug of water, headed back to the hostel, about a block away, and out it came. I doubled over, corn soup violently coming out of me 5 times. Thankfully I was wearing shorts and waterproof sandals I could wash off because it was all over my legs and feet. Ian stood about 10 feet away, partly disgusted and partly horrified, I'm sure. He handed me the water we just bought and I poured it over my legs, laughing, instantly feeling better. Then the street dogs came around and started eating it up. Gross. I went back to buy more water and finish rinsing off. Ian went back to the hostel and alerted the Nurse who brought out some tissues and checked on me. I took a shower, and passed out for 3 hours. Upon waking up, I'm now still achey and shivery. Took some advil, mixed an electrolyte tablet in with some water and am having granola cookies for dinner while Ian and Yvonne went back to town. The hostel owner explained it was normal, my body's reaction. I shouldn't have had the corn (too hard to digest) and should stay away from meat and alcohol. By tomorrow my body should be acclimated. I hope so! There are lagoons to see, and the salt flats the next day.

Also found out my mom had a similar reaction years ago in Macchu Picchu. Glad to know altitude sickness runs in the family.

3 days in Santiago: No Buenos Aires, that´s for sure.

A less bustling city than BA, still a slight European influence, smaller, less noisy. View of the opposite side of the Andes than Ive been used to. And with American chain stores! Never was I so happy to see a Dunkin Donuts than on our first day. Unfortunately the vanilla coffee was a bit burnt, but I still downed the whole thing. Second burst of excitement came when I found Orbit gum at the local supermarket. Have been slowly savoring the 2 packs I got from Shannon and Shelton back in BA in April. Bought 3 more packs.

There is also a street of amazing thrift stores where we all scored a nice item... or two. We all were a little worried about the apparently freezing temperatures of the Bolivian salt flats, so we were on a mission for some warm items. Ian got an Old Navy puffer vest and ski cap that goes with his whole Moby look (we´ve taken to singing "Why Does My Heart Feel So Bad?" at random times throughout the trip and crack up each time). Yvonne found a perfect Tommy Hilfiger puffer jacket in the kids´ section and I scored a brown leather jacket that fit me just so. $24 very well spent on my behalf. That was the first day. Tuesday we checked out the Mercado Central, full of fresh fish and shellfish of all kinds. Then we hiked this big hill (Cerra de Cristobal?) to get a view of the city, albeit covered in smog. Then took the funucula down (my first!). We also wandered around the Bohemian neighborhood Bellavista and hunted down a Bob´s Burgers so Yvonne could show me what an Ovaltine milkshake was all about (she had many when she was in Brazil for a month and couldn't stop talking about them. It was literally a mission and a half to find one, but we pursued and were successful). Also found a Yogen Fruz along the way, another burst of nostalgic excitement from my childhood. Emailed my dad and brothers immediately a picture of it, as the Coconut Grove store we used to frequent closed when I was probably 10. Tried one with a Chilean fruit called Nunuquena?

Yesterday we went back to the vintage street because a certain bright shiny red jacket (Michael Jackson red) was still calling my name and I didnt think the leather jacket would cut it in the salt flats. We went back last night (after a day of a wine tour in the morning and an artisinal market in the afternoon (where I bought homemade marshmallows, chocolate and a bookmark. Really wanted this leather cuff, but considering I´ve already bought 2 cuffs in Argentina, I skipped it). Anyway back to the vintage store round 2. The red shine turned out to be a bit much for me so I wandered over to another section of the store and almost immediately fell for a Ralph Lauren Polo army green puffer down jacket with hood and velveteen closures. $35. Sold! Yvonne picked up an amazing old black clutch purse circa 1952 for $4.

The food options are also a lot better than BA (although I cant say Ive really had a great meal thus far). A lot of Mexican and Asian options, which we have happily eaten up. Weve also Pisco Soured our way around town, with classic Chilean Piscos, Ginger Honey Piscos, Mango Piscos, Peruvian Piscos... which is why I woke up this morning to go for a run. I felt the ole Im traveling and eating and drinking like theres no tomorrow because Im on vacation coming around and I had to knock it down.

Today we are off to Vina del Mar, a UNESCO World Heritage site, then tonight we take the midnight bus up to La Serena, six hours north and on the coast. Supposed to be gorgeous views of the ocean and the stars. Planning to stay two nights but were open to see where the wind takes us.

Sorry for the lack of apostrophes in this posting, this keyboard makes it very difficult to be grammatically correct.

Chile-bound. And jobless.

I did it. I quit after a week.

I pretty much had made my decision by Friday morning, and had lived with the anxiety of knowing I'd have to tell Carolyn for 3 days. I didn't want to tell her until I was absolutely sure, and until the last possible minute. And since Yvonne and Ian wanted to head to Chile tomorrow, today was the day.

But first, yesterday. I wanted to show Dan and Yvonne around some wineries, and created a schedule of well known, larger ones and of course small little Altocedro. Sole, a spunky young local graphic designer I had met through Cara, the Seattlite, offered to drive us around. With an early 9am meet-up, we cruised around in her 1999 VW, me making mate in the front seat, burning the shit out of my pants with her leaky water thermos, blasting CCR on Route 40, on our way to our 10am appointment at Catena Zapata. There we met Myfawny, who gave us a (gratis) premium tasting where we compared the domestic line to the export line. I apologize to any Catena Zapata fans, but you're falling for the marketing and the name. The best thing about the visit was the crazy adobe pyramid architecture of the place. The wines didn't do it for any of us.

Next stop was an hour south at Altocedro, where Leo was busy devatting barrels and making blends, but took the time to give us a proper tasting tour. Even including the coveted barrels aging away in the cellar (where I managed to spill wine all over myself, see picture below). It was nice to be home. Lunch was at El Cielo, where I had what is by far my favorite empanada in Mendoza, and the ensalada especial sin jamon. We shared a bottle of Altocedro Reserva 2009 for Dan to try and see if maaaybe Astor would carry it. But of course it all falls to Lorena, the buyer.

By 3:30 we were off to Clos de los Siete, French superstar winemaker Michel Rolland's project, where Diego, a friend of Carolyn's, makes his wine. Picture long blond 80's rockstar hair, a beard, and a charismatic California surfer attitude. His first project in Mendoza is super boutique and small (only 12 barrels fermenting, which means 4 barrels of finished wine, which means maybe 1,200 bottles total). All grapes from La Consulta. Very very nice. No name yet for the brand. He also treated us to a Sav Blanc and Pinot Noir from the Meliflor tanks and a few different AMAZING Malbecs from both Melifor and Val de Flores. Top notch. By the end of the day we all had schoolgirl crushes on Diego and his wines, even Dan, who ended the tour with the awesome quote "yeah, man, let me know when you're in BsAs. It'll be fun to catch up.'' Catch up? You just met the man.

Dinner was at closed door restaurant Los Chocos, which I posted about earlier. Max of 8 people at the dining room in the chef's apartment. 5 courses with wine pairings. Yvonne ate so much she woke up in the middle of the night and threw up. (Not food poisoning, as noone else got sick, and this has happened to her in the past). Poor girl. But pretty funny nonetheless.

This morning I couldn't sleep past 9, regardless of having drunk what must have been at least 2 bottles of wine throughout the course of the day yesterday. Too anxious about the resignation. Fear of being blacklisted from everything in Mendoza and making an enemy. I decided it was a perfect time for a run, to clear the head and detox the body. Made it to the park and did a few laps around the mini Central Park like lake.

Then it was time to meet Kendall at her house at 1, with the intention of collecting a few things from the bags I had stored at her house (she's 29, from San Fran, quit her wine PR job in March, now works for one of the larger wineries here, in PR). A regular Martha Stewart, she whipped up an amazing gourmet salad with roasted chicken and vegetables and pomegranates and we ate in her backyard in the little crevice of sunlight we could warm up in. She gave me some advice on what to say to Carolyn. Nice having someone with a few years of Corporate America experience to run it by. Met Carolyn at her house at 5:30, shot the shit a bit, she made coffee (instant of course, this being Argentina) and we headed out to her garden to talk. I told her I had reservations about the job, that I mislead myself into thinking I was ready for an office job but I wasn't (thanks Dad for that line!). That I felt claustrophobic and stuck, that this was not what I was in SA to do, but that I really liked her, and felt terrible about the whole thing. I apologized profusely and told her how I had agonized over the weekend. She accepted my apology. She had a feeling this was coming from how I was acting Friday (if you know me, you know I am a terrible BS'er and if I don't like someone or something, I am rather blunt about it). We talked it out for about an hour, the low salary did come up and I was honest and said I did feel like I should be making more. She admitted that she hadn't realized how low it was and that if I was open to staying, she would pay more. But at this point, my mind was made. She asked if I would stay another week or two and I told her about the trip to Chile and the opportunity to travel with friends. She understood, agreed it was a good thing for me to do. She said if I wanted to come back to work for her, I could. I told her I would be open to doing project-based consulting work, but in no way do I want to be in the office everyday working in proposals and answering client emails. Again, she understood. She even started crying a bit. That was a shock. Usually I'm the one doing the crying when I quit! (I've done it twice now, with the RIAA and SXM). So. She's going to come up with some projects for me and maybe we'll work something out, either from the road, or when I return to Mendoza in a month or so. I told her a lot depends on the winery gigs, that there needs to be something for me to come back to (besides my bags!). All in all, a good conversation.

Tomorrow at 7:30 am Yvonne, Ian and I will be on a bus set for the other side of the Andes. Hooray! A change in scenery, cuisine, accent, culture. The plan is for 3 nights in Santiago, and then northbound towards the Bolivian salt flats, with many stops along the way. I like this new plan.

What we ate last night.

Cocina Cuyana de Autor “Menú Degustación Verano 2010 - 2011”

Tortita con chicharrones, chorizo de cerdo, tomates quemados y queso pepato ahumado Mendocininan tortita (local flat bread), pork chorizo, burnt tomatoes and smoked "pepato" cheese

Pastel Mendocino con salsa Milcayac Our own version of a Mendocinian Empanada with Milcayac sauce

Queso de cabra tipo camembert tibio, carpaccio de remolachas e higos blancos con vinagreta de pomelo y nueces tostadas

Goat cheese duo, beat root carpaccio and figs with a grapefruit and toasted walnuts vinaigrette


Ossobucco 10 horas, crema de papas y ajos, verdes y chutney de alcayota

"Ten hours" beef shank, potatoes and garlic cream, greens and "malabar melon" chutney

Húmedo aireado de algarroba y aceite de Oliva, frutas quemadas y salsa cremosa helada de Cedrón.

“Algarroba” and olive oil moist cake, burnt fruit and creamy Cedron sauce .

Café o té y acompañado de petit fours.

Coffee or tea selection with petit fours.

Each dish is carefully paired with premium wines from Mendocinian Wineries by our sommelier. Water service and “fresh out of the oven” home made bread also included.

Time to stop overanalyzing everything and live spontaneously.

So Monday I started the job. It's a 9-5'er for sure. No lunch break. More proposal creating, CRM developing, shared inboxes, invoices. What? Have I gone back to 2008? What did I get myself into??

With Jo having left Mendoza on Tuesday, seeing a few shit apartments (which are pretty much what my new paltry salary allows) and having radio silence on the winery consulting gigs, the turn of events last night made me believe it is time to say the hell with it, go with the gut, and not do what Lindsey would normally do.

In my head I have made the decision, but have not made it official in the real world, so I will hold off on saying anything concrete just yet because I'm not exactly sure who is reading this. But I may be seeing Chile and Bolivia earlier than planned.

Last night Dan and Yvonne, friends from NYC, arrived with their newly made friend Ian, a Brit. D and Y have been traveling the world for about a year and been in BsAs for a few weeks. We had an amazing dinner at Francis Mallmon (they say the best restaurant in Mendoza), thanks to Dan's expense account at Astor. (Thanks, Andy!) Having written 6+ blogs for them on my own good will, I thought a nice dinner and a few bottles of wine were nice payment. The steak for 2 was ridiculously large, could have easily fed a family of four, will post the pictures to prove it. Sirloin was quite nice as well. Dessert for 4 put us over the top. Which is why I woke up early to run run run this morning (and help clear the head to make life decisions).

Today went to Chandon for a champagne tasting and multi course lunch with work. Not recommendable at all, for a variety of reasons, but left with a bottle of Latitud 33, the go-to Malbec when you want something easy and cheap. So I guess that's worth something!

Tonight it's another big dinner with Dan and Yvonne and Ian, at one of my favorites, Ocho Cepas and tomorrow we hit a few wineries (only going to the places where I know people, I'm such a big deal now, you know). Of course Altocedro is on the list. And El Cielo!

Tomorrow night we've got last minute rezzies at one of the closed door restaurants here, ranked #1 on TripAdvisor, thanks to my coworker being friends with the chef's boyfriend. And I'm in for free!

I'll post more later, when I have officially made my next big life decision. So dramatic. It's South America! Why do I overthink everything so much?! I'm just going to do it. Yes.

New job starts today!

The work day starts at 10 am... not too bad! Quite Argentine I might say.

This weekend I got my good share of local Mendoza culture. Leo came up from La Consulta to hang with me and Jo as it was Jo's last weekend here before her boyfriend comes in from London for a few weeks.

Friday night got my first taste of Mendoza night life, which pretty much centers around one strip of bars and restaurants, on a street called Aristedes. It's a small town and you're bound to run into people you know, whether you like that or not. Bars stay open quite late and we called it an early night, around 4am.

Saturday was spent sleeping in, watching movies, drinking coffee and Saturday night was a chill one in the hostel's bar, with pizza and Malbec. Perfect.

Sunday Jo and I caught a ride back down to la Consulta to spend the day at the winery, tasting the wines (almost all are completely finished fermenting). I tasted the Syrah that's been my favorite, and it's still quite interesting. Had an empanada and ensalada especial at El Cielo for old times' sake and said hi to Mili and Yamil after they got back from his futbol tournament, where his team came in second place, just one game shy of going to the championships in BsAs. He scored ten goals over four games and was in good spirits.

Ok I have 17 minutes to get to Carolyn's house/office. Wish me luck! First day jitters. Ha.

Think I'm taking the job...

At least for 3 months. Carolyn couldn't raise the salary, but she did agree to less hours so I can do some consulting work with other wineries if I want to, as well as travel. (Machu Picchu in July anyone?). Also, this salary would only be for 3 months, and then we'll reassess how it's working for both of us. I'm thinking I'll change my ticket home to mid-August so I can go to Gena's wedding, enjoy NYC in its awful August humidity, and get a wardrobe update. Oh, maybe see some of you guys, too...

I sent an email to Guillermo, in the Altocedro office, asking his advice, since he's got a lot of the potential winery opportunities for me...

What else... since I've been back in Mendoza as of Saturday night, I've had more than my share of wine... Sunday was a big asado at Myfawny's sister's house (she the Welsh/Argentine who started a tourism company with her American boyfriend Adam), and we spent the day jumping on her niece's trampoline, me showing off my skills from the 6th grade. (I can still flip!) Dangerous after consuming a lot of Malbec, however.

Monday and Wednesday I went back to the Altocedro office to wrap up some projects and I'll go back tomorrow to get paid and talk to Guille about possible other winery opps. Monday night was the weekly tasting and we had 6 different Bornadas. My fave ended up being the cheapest of the night ($33 pesos) - Los Perdices.

Tuesday afternoon Katie, Jo and I got a private tour of Don Manuel Villafañe winery with Federico, one of Karim's best friends and head winemaker. They're not open to the public, so he picked us up at our hostel and we joined him on his weekly rounds of tank and barrel tastings. He had some refreshing whites (Chardonnay and Torrontes, some sparkling), which was a nice change from the overload of reds we've been drinking. After three or so hours of tasting (and spitting out almost half, so we weren't completely drunk), we were still done for and had an easy night at a cafe after some disappointing empanadas from Mercado Central. Also scored a bottle of DMV's Gran Reserva Malbec and a bottle ofTorrontes, courtesy of Federico.

Last night was Winemaker's Night at the Vines, and yet another tasting. Domaine Santo Diego. The winemaker, a man of about 65 years old, under 5" tall, was more entertaining than his wines. We tasted only 3, and obviously 9pm is too early to go home so some of the girls from the weekly tasting group went out for a beer on Aristedes (the main strip of bars with nice outdoor seating) and I got some advice for this morning's meeting.

After my meeting with Caroyln, I went for a nice run around the lake in the big Central Park like park then met Jo back at the hostel. We made an awesome salad for lunch (the equivalent of $1.50 US for everything in the salad plus a pound of grapes. I paid about $0.50 US for 4 mandarines and an apple earlier). You know I love my cheap produce.

Now it's off to the hair salon so I can stop wearing my hair in a ponytail 24/7. About three people have seen my hair down in the past month and each commented on how I need to do it more. Oops, guess La Consulta let me slip on a few things beauty-wise. Back to city living!

The 2011 Harvest has come to an end: some farewell thoughts. (Apologies for any sappiness).

(Copying this from the Altocedro FB page as I think it's relatively well-written, if I don't say so myself. As for my last posting, no job decisions have been made yet. Asked for more money... should know more next week).

This morning Leo took me along for one last long round of tank tastings (after 26 sips on an empty stomach, I may have had a slight buzz before noon, don't judge). After lunch, Guillermo joined us for a few barrel tastings (some of which I think would be great bottled as is, and can't wait to try them two years from now). And tonight there's a final celebratory asado with the winery staff. The past month has flown by, and I'm not sure I'm quite ready to say goodbye.

I'll miss the winery's ever-present sound of hoses: rinsing down equipment, pumping over tanks, warming up barrels. The surprise visits from local winemakers, agronomists, suppliers, tourists, friends. The overwhelming, yet comforting smell of fermenting yeast. The plethora of fresh grapes at my disposal to snack on when hunger set in between meals. The thrice daily mate sessions, especially vital in the brutal cold evening hours as we waited for the day's sorting to end.

I have written mostly of the winemaking techniques I was exposed to, and the various processes a grape goes through before it becomes wine. But I haven't had a chance to explain what it was like to live here; life outside the winery. Which of course is just as important to the final outcome of the wine as what goes on inside the winery.

The immediate thing that comes to mind that I'll miss is the jaw-dropping, pinch-me-I'm-dreaming, gorgeous scenery. The depending-on-the-weather mountain views (can go from dusty pink to brilliant blue in minutes), the random horses I pass on my bike rides around town, the ubiquitous vineyards on every road, sometimes in people's front yards. Of course there are the long lunches at El Cielo, La Consulta's very own Cheers, where everyone knows your name. The town's one stoplight that is the starting point for any directions you're about to receive. The fact that anyone and everyone you see will say hi to you, regardless if you know them or not.

Above all, I'll miss the people. Coming from NYC by way of Buenos Aires, I was warned many times of the tranquility of such a small town as La Consulta and that I may get bored or lonely. But there was never a meal I was forced to eat alone for lack of eating companions and I was never stranded, regardless of not having a car. I was showered with local fresh produce for my cabaña, a bike was loaned to me for the month, I attended birthday dinners and Sunday family lunches.

When Karim talks about the specialness of La Consulta's terroir, he speaks not only of the actual land, but of the people that contribute to the history of this unique winemaking region. I can personally vouch, as an outsider, that I have never felt so at home and so welcome. They say if you don't bake with love, you can taste it in the cookies. I think the same goes for wine. And fortunately, here in La Consulta, they bake wine with love.

Mendoza Job Offer... Oh hell. Life Decision Time!

I got the job with Carolyn, if I want it. What I was thinking would be just few months has turned into a year commitment. A year in Mendoza. A year in Argentina. I don't know! At first, I was absolutely 100% in, but now, 24 hours later, I'm rethinking things. It would be a great learning opportunirty, both on how to run a small business, as well as with the Mendoza wine and tourism industry. And of course more time to perfect the Spanish.

But on the other hand, it's an office job, a 9-5, a Monday-Friday... am I ready for that just yet? And what about trying other wine countries, other cultures... a year from now I'll be almost 29. These are the things running through my head. At least the Sirius stock is on the up! Maybe that will take me through my old age.

Had three hours on the bus back from Mendoza to over-analyze as I tend to do, and have talked to the girls in Mendoza (during the above pictured going away wine picnic in the Plaza for Cara), my parents, Leo, Mili... the common answer tends to be one of two things: follow your heart OR just try it for a few months, and if you don't like it, you can always leave.

Hmm.

Hmmmm.

Help.

Sunday lunch, my favorite meal of the week.

In addition to the obvious Spanish history, Argentina has a large Italian influence and population as well. It is very apparent in the cuisine, from the abundance of homemade pastas and pizzas to the ridiculously good gelato to the favored aperetif found on every restaurant and bar shelf, Fernet. With time, this has morphed into the cocktail of choice among Generations X and Y: Fernet and Coke. The majority of Argentines either have a Spanish or Italian last name, and there's a running joke about a newlywed Argentine couple that went to Italy on their honeymoon, and upon returning, exclaimed, it's really weird, all the streets in Italy have Argentine names!

Leo, the junior winemaker, comes from a 100% Italian family, and the roots are strong (last name, Morgani). I was invited to lunch at his grandmother's house yesterday, an invitation that came with instant excitement. Of course, it being Sunday and yet another Argentine holiday (Dia de los Trabajadores!), almost his whole family was there, from grandparents and parents, to aunt and cousin, to brother and sister and sister's husband.

When we walked in, I was instantly transported to what I felt was a house in the Italian countryside. Leo's mom, cousin, aunt and grandmother were all at one side of the kitchen table, covered in flour and dough, and working away on homemade gnocchis. (Dad, grandfather and brother were on the other side, watching whatever futbol game was on).

Did I want to help? Hell yes I did!

Leo's mom, Monica, showed me how to roll out a bit of dough, cut it into tiny squares, and use my thumb to roll each square down a long wooden spoon-like tool that had long ridges indented on one side (the yellow thing in the picture). The first few came out looking like lumpy messes, and Leo laughed and told me to press harder. I finally got the hang of it, using my crazy hitchhiker thumb to its fullest extent.

Once we made what I'm sure were over 1,000 gnochhis, they went to the pot of boiling water in batches, getting cooked until they began to float. They were then placed in a dish and smothered in Salsa Portuguese, a homemade tomato sauce (tomatoes from the Morgani plantation of course) with mushrooms, beef, onions, thyme, and a little cream. Topped off with grated parmesan. Then came the roasted chicken and vegetables (eggplant, peppers, onions, sweet potato, white potato), all from the family plantation. Store bought empanadas were the disappointment of the meal.

But no Argentine meal is complete without some form of sugar. First came the baked apples, topped with dulce de leche. Wait, there's an interesting flavor in these apples, I said. What is it? A few people shrugged, with Leo's sister saying, baked apples and dulce de leche! No, no, there's something else in there. Then Leo's grandmother came over, chuckling. Whiskey! She pantomimed drinking the whole bottle. This is the same grandmother that put Fernet in her coffee the last itme I had lunch there. I like this woman.

After the apples, which I think may be my new go-to dessert for dinner parties (so easy and SO good!), came boiled and semi-candied membrillo, the ever-present quince. This I actually did not like, and only had a bite of. Then came the strong coffee, served in espresso cups. And of course the Fernet. After having a few Fernet and Cokes the night before, I passed on it, and Leo's dad was the only one seen pouring it into his coffee.

I wasn't hungry until about 10:30 last night, at which point I had a few crackers and called it a day.

Today is the last day of grape crushing, and we have an end of harvest asado to celebrate. After, I'm catching a ride back to Mendoza city with Karim, who is leaving for a three-week European vacation on Wednesday. There's a wine tasting tonight with the old group, and it's Cara's last one before she goes back to the States. We'll be tasting bubblies! And tomorrow morning I have an interview with Carolyn, who has an office position for me with her company. If all goes well, I may be staying in Mendoza another few months.

I'll come back to La Consulta tomorrow evening and stay through the end of the week, as the harvest is nearly finished and my time here is almost up. Sad! I moved out of my picture perfect cabin today, and will either stay at the B&B where Karim had stayed or at Leo's house... still TBD. My bags will hang out at the winery until I know. Yes, Dad, I am living the life of a gypsy!

(Picture to the right is of Jo, Karim and me after our last lunch together at El Cielo on Saturday.)