How did I find myself in the middle of a family asado at the Portrerillos valley, kayaking with Mariel, a wine host at the Vines, and her aunt? It all begins with last night's BodegasTwitter charity event (eerily similar to charity events found in DC and NYC - booths of wine tasting mixed in with local famous chefs doling out bits of their seasonal fares, live bands, art and wine auction with whatever industry's who's who imbibing and socializing... very posh for Mendoza). I think I saw every single person I know in in the city... all eight of them. From Carolyn, my "rabbi," to Emily, my dream-crusher (I kid, I kid), to Adam and Myfawny from the wine club to a random filmmaker I befriended in my hostel. I actually felt like I had some friends here. Of course Karim and his wife were there, as was Marta and Guillermo from the office. Marta and I palled around all night, finding our favorite wines (mine the Catena Zapata Angelica Malbec Reserve, hers a Deseado sweet Torrontes espumante) as well as filling up on the braised pork, trout and quinoa with roasted peaches, tiramisu and alfajores. Also met a winemaker from Napa who has been working with Karim on sending frozen Malbec grapes to his winery in Rutherford for their first attempt at making Malbec in the U.S. He gave me his card with the promise of helping me if I want to harvest in Napa this fall... hmm. I'll keep that in mind. The music was awesome, from electronic tango to amazing flamenco to the super popular Kevin Johansen, an Argentine-American rocker. Apparently his Guacamole song is quite good when feeling depressed, as Adam and Myfawny enlightened me (reminder they are the couple who started MendozaWineCamp.com- he is American, she is Wales/Argentine ). As the lights came on and we were getting pushed out, the dynamic duo invited me grab drinks at a bar. Of course I would join them. Jumping in their 1970s VW van, we headed out to the local bar scene in Godoy Cruz. Adam is heading back to the States in a week for a 3 month publicity/marketing tour and may have some work for me helping Myva out with their tours. Both offered to help me with anything I need, especially if/when I get lonely. Myva was also very forceful in introducing me to her best friends, Julieta and Mariela, both who work at the Vines. Sat around a table of 10, being one of 2 Americans, speaking mostly Spanish. Mariela asked what my plans were for today and I shrugged, figuring I'd spend it hanging around the hostel considering everything is closed. She immediately invited me to her asado, promising she'd pick me up around 11/11:30. Only instructions were to bring clothing for kayaking and some pesos for the meat. Bid adieu at 3:30 and cabbed home, and had a cab driver who swore he didn't have 30 pesos change for my 50 peso bill, except for five $1 US bills. I took them.
So this morning at promptly 11:45 Seba (Sebastian), one of Mariela's good friends, picked me up and drove around the empty town to pick up a kayak at his friend's mom's house, strapped it to the roof of his tiny car using a blanket tucked into the backseat doors (I kid you not, I have a picture) and drove about 10 mph to Mariela and Claudio's apartment (rare for Argentina, they've been living together for 4 years- she's 24, he's 30). Every other corner in Mendoza and surrounding suburbs had a tiny mercado/panaderia/vinoteca with signs advertising this week's meat ofertas. Once at Mariela's, we waited about 30 minutes for her and her aunt to get back from the mercado, where they purchased the aformentioned meat, and her uncle and boyfriend and cousins to come with 3 more kayaks, also strapped to the roof of their SUV. Then it was off to Portrerillos, about an hour drive towards the Andes, on the same route used to head to Santiago. To say the landscape was pretty would be an understatement, as we drove past some well-known wineries including Ruca Malen and Precia. Of course my camera was still in last night's purse, and I only had my iTouch's less than ideal camera. But I made do. Will upload those pics tomorrow. Spent the day hanging around a campsite-type set-up, sipping mate, kayaking in the Rio Blanco among bright blue-green water, old, white gnarled trees straight out of a Tim Burton movie, and the snow-capped Andes. I must have done something right in a past life.
By 5pm the meat was ready. Surprisingly not cooked over an open fire, Mariela's uncle first made the fire, then took the embers and placed them under the little iron grill (parilla), creating an oven of sorts. They kept the fire going next to the grill, but only embers cooked the meat. And, boy, was there meat. About 3 cuts of beef, sweetbreads, intestines and chicken. Only seasoned with salt and cooked for about 2 hours. A bottle of Cab Sav and Malbec, bread, pickled onions and a tomato and onion salsa rounded out the meal. A white melon was the first dessert. More mate. Then we went to the tiny market about a 15 minute walk away and got alfajores and white wine. Sun was beginning to set and a fire was quickly constructed from dry twigs and leaves. Then a hole was cut in another melon, seeds scooped out, and white wine poured in. A mate straw went into the hole and around the circle the melon went, the fire continuing to grow. Finally at complete darkness, around 8:30, we packed up and headed back to the city. Hung out at Mariela and Claudio's apartment for a bit, putting away the kayaks, enjoying being in a local's apartment. The guys drank the favorite Fernet and Coke, Mariela sold me a body soap (she also reps the Brazilian version of Avon). By 10:30 Seba was ready to drive me to the hostel, where hopefully the bed bugs have disappeared. About 90% of the day was in Spanish, with me understanding maybe 30%. Mostly listened, usually only talking when spoken to, but I definitely picked up some new words. And now it's time for bed, so I can be bright and cheery for the office tomorrow.
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